While underscoring inclusivity, gender-fluid fashion is reshaping the world of jewellery

The iconic jewellery brand Tiffany’s recently released a collection in collaboration with streetwear brand Supreme, named “Return to Tiffany”. The collection looks back at styles created in the 1960s and reimagines them for the world today. The collection notably features several gender-fluid designs that add to the prevalent conversation of the non-binary approach to fashion, like the oval tag Pearl necklace. More and more brands are restructuring their collections to be more gender neutral. Bulgari announced its gender-fluid B. Zero1 Rock collection in March 2020, followed suit by Louis Vuitton and Dior who both announced unisex lines in November 2020 and March 2021 respectively. There is no greater platform for self-expression than fashion, and over the years this means of expression has evolved into a more fluid spectrum rather than a subscription to preconceived gender-conforming notions. We speak to a few industry insiders, from designers and stylists to connect creators, about the progress towards a more gender-free approach to fashion, its implications, and direction. 

Suhani Parekh, Founder and designer at MISHO

Having recently launched her first comprehensive collection designed for men, Suhani Parekh, designer and founder of MISHO, a contemporary jewellery brand, states that “jewellery is becoming a shared asset again. It’s becoming a tool to communicate your individuality.” Focusing on providing a wide array of options for feminine as well as masculine aesthetics, the brand features pieces like minimalistic zodiac necklaces along with pearl necklaces, Onyx or Lapis bracelets, and architectural signet rings. 

Pradhyuman Maloo, Creative director and jeweller at Nornament

Mumbai-based jeweller and owner of Nornament, Pradhyuman Maloo believes that gender-fluid jewellery “breaks the differences between the role bias perception of objects and behaviors.”  The brand makes pieces that are all-inclusive, like pendants that convert into brooches and cufflinks that can be worn as earrings. Maloo also reiterates that jewellery has always been a “benchmark of unparalleled royalty, rarity, and craftsmanship.” while referring to Maharajas of India and believes that they continue to influence our sartorial choices today. 

Bhavya Ramesh, Jewellery designer

Bhavya Ramesh, who created her namesake jewellery brand in 2018,  believes that jewellery is beyond just ornamentation and is symbolic and a form of expression. Ramesh notes that” jewellery has historically been gender fluid, however with the current generation that is further sensitized towards gender identities and inclusivity, the fine line between genders has never been more blurred.” Her recent collection, ‘Pankh’, aims to “show that men can find a reflection of themselves in jewellery often borrowed from what is considered feminine.” further showing a seamless connection between two sensibilities. 

Mickey Freeman, Celebrity stylist

Celebrity Stylist Mickey Freeman recently styled actor Woody McClain for Esquire Middle East in Amethyst Cluster bracelets, gold hoop earrings, chunky gold rings, and a gold anklet over his sock, a look inspired by a post by Rihanna on her Instagram. Freeman refers to Pharell Williams as the pioneer and purveyor of gender-fluid styling. Noting his “conspicuous women’s vintage Chanel pearl necklaces, while still managing to exude the air of a distinguished gentleman.” Freeman believes that “self-expression in every sense will continue to push forward, continually reinterpreting itself through the eyes of up and coming designers. And ultimately, tastes in color, material, and overall design will continue to merge.”

Andrew Gelwicks, Celebrity stylist

Stylist to popular names like Catherine O’Hara and Michael Douglas, Andrew Gelwicks credits fashion front runners like Harry Styles, Troye Sivan, Jacob Elrodi, and Timothée Chalamet for expediting the movement towards genderless fashion styling. Gelwicks also notes that women are also starting to venture into a stronger masculine styling, naming Kristen Stewart, Janelle Monae, and Bella Hadid. When asked about a brand he believes to be excelling in gender-fluid jewelry, Gelwicks mentions, “Alan Crocetti is one of the most exciting jewelry designers who make pieces that speak to gender fluidity in a powerful and contemporary way.”

Joan Dominic Rai, Digital creator

Digital content creator and storyteller, Joan Dominic Rai is delighted to see jewellery be more a part of mainstream fashion rather than reserved for high fashion and editorial content. He believes jewellery is more about “timeless fashion and a personal choice that is beyond gender.” Taking inspiration from Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, for his personal style, Rai’s go-to homegrown brands include Tanzire, Eurumme Jewellery, Radhika Agarwal Studio, Tann Trim and MISHO. 

Also read:

12 pieces to start building a capsule wardrobe of gender-fluid fashion

The rise of gender-agnostic models in India 

7 personalities who are helping us evolve our conversations around gender identities